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Rabbits as companions
Is a rabbit a good companion? They are really cute and seem like they would be a fun pet to have. Before you consider
getting a rabbit for yourself or a family member, there are a few things to consider.
Do you want a rabbit to be a pet for your child?
Do you want to be caring for this animal for the next decade or so? All things considered, most rescues will not adopt a rabbit
out if they know it will be a child's pet. There are exceptions to the rule, of course. Your child may very well be the perfect friend for his or
her new rabbit. But expect "the worst" -- expect the rabbit to be your responsibility after a month or two, or maybe a few years. Expect to clean the
rabbit's living quarters several times a week (usually a quick sweep of debris and changing the litterbox, but it's still takes time out of your
long, busy day...for the rest of this rabbit's life.) Expect the rabbit to be the whole family's companion friend.
Do you want a rabbit to be a "lap" pet?
Most likely, you can forget this as an option when caring for a rabbit. Most rabbits
will only like sitting beside you. Why not on your lap? It has to do with the fact that they are prey animals. On your lap, they are less secure --
they need to be able to see their surroundings. There are rabbits who will be "lap" companions, but you won't be able to train it to be one if it's
not inclined. If this is important to you, be sure to discuss it with your local rescue group (Please consider adopting before buying from a breeder.)
Do you want a clean, litterbox-trained pet?
Rabbits actually do make great companions as they tend to gravitate towards litterboxes
to relieve themselves. However, it is highly *not* recommended that they share litterboxes with the cats in your household (when your rabbit is out and
about during their recommended house roaming and exercising time.) Generally the litter used for cats contains ingredients harmful to a rabbit if ingested.
Think a rabbit won't eat some cat litter? Think again! Some may just eat a little, but if they get in to a habit of it it will cause stomach issues (vet trip!).
Rabbits will generally use a litterbox, but they will go elsewhere as well depending on how they are. Expect to clean their living quarters several times
a week. It's not a big deal, but if your life is already very busy, consider that it will add another few minutes to your daily routine. Our rabbit, Beasley
gets into the cats' litterboxes -- he absolutely loves to kick the sand out. We replaced some of the nearby cat litterboxes with higher walled boxes.
This discouraged him, somewhat. But he found where the lower walled litterboxes were... and was at it again. It's fun to watch, but the cats don't like it
much. The power vac gets more usage than it ever has, too.
So, mixing cats and dogs and rabbits... is this okay?
Some will say the dogs and cats will prey on the rabbits when they are out
and about. It really depends on the breed and the temperment of the animals. You definitely will want to observe all interactions and be ready to separate
any unwanted behavior right away. We've been really lucky. Everyone in our house gets along great. For more info on behaviorial training, we recommend
a visit to the House Rabbit Society. Local rescue groups can also be of tremendous help.
Just one rabbit?
Rabbits actually do a thousand times better in "bonded" pairs. Rescue groups are outstanding resources to find good, bonded pairs, or
assistance with bonding. Rabbits are more like dogs in the sense that these two species are "social" creatures. Cats, in their own way, are social creatures,
but far less in need of socializing than rabbits and dogs. If you're going to get a rabbit, you may as well plan on getting two. It's just better for
their overall wellbeing.
Housing issues
Okay, you've probably heard of the term, "house rabbit." This means the rabbit lives in the house, not in a hutch outside. For many reasons,
including the above stated above (needing social interaction), rabbits do best in a large pen with access to the rest of your house (hopefully supervised, especially
when other animals share the house). Many rescues will only adopt to those with this mind set. You can spend a little money on a cheap cage, but you get what
you pay for. You can also spend a lot of money on multi-storied "condos" and be disappointed as well. (For instance, some rabbits cannot go up and down the ramps
so easily; and some have been injured by this as a result. The condos we speak of are made with unfinished wood around the edges. Now, this sounds great for those pro-environment. But,
once the rabbit pees a few times on it (and they will), you will understand.) The best housing is a pen with some lino or similar flooring remnant underneath. They are
a thousand times easier to clean, too. Just lift it up and sweep, for the most part.
Rabbit proofing the house
Here is a fun task! No matter what you do, the rabbit will likely chew on it. You can firmly say "No" to the the rabbit. They will likely
run off for a bit, but as soon as you are not looking -- ha, they'll be back at whatever delicious cable, rug, furniture, clothing piece they have discovered. You can
offer many chew toys (untreated willow toys are great for many rabbits), but left to the exposed cable, rug, furniture, book or article of clothing laying on
the floor, you will find yourself in a frustrating situation. Don't despair. The local hardware store sells cheap cable covering options. The others will have
to be dealt with differently generally by relocating the tempting piece to another area blocked from the rabbit's right of way.
Food!!!
Rabbits should have about 2 cups of vegetables (mostly leafy greens, see the House Rabbit Society for tips) for every 5-6 lbs of body weight daily.
Plus, unlimited amounts of high fiber hay (generally timothy). No nuts or grains. Minimal fruits. Growing rabbits or nursing mothers need more alfalfa hay. Rabbit pellets should be provided,
but should not be the sole source of food. If you don't spend a lot of time at the produce section at your grocery store, you will now. It's actually a great
way to share a healthy lifestyle together.
Hygiene and health
Rabbits need to be groomed regularly to help them prevent "wool block" (i.e., another term for "hair ball"). They are very clean animals, and grooming is a social behavior with
them. The less loose fur they have to groom, the better. Be sure their diet includes lots of high fiber (18% minimum) to help move fur along in their digestive tract, low protein, low sugar/carb items. Trimming their
nails is also necessary. And, a bonus for rabbit caretaking includes cleaning their scent glands monthly! What?! It's not nearly as bad as it sounds. You use a q-tip wetted
with warm water and wipe the creased areas on the sides of their genital area. If you don't, you will have problems. (If you see your rabbit making a hard thump on the
floor, it may mean discomfort from blocked scent glands). It kinda smells, hence the name "scent glands." But it's not unbearable all things considered. The nice thing
about rabbits is if you hold them on their backs, it is like a hypnotic effect on them -- sedating them for a brief time. If you find you rabbit is hyperventilating,
hold them close and firm to your chest. Or, better, let them go to relax on their own. Wrapping those less agreeable or human-socialized in a towel also helps.
So why do I want a rabbit again?
Rabbits are intelligent, curious and playful creatures. They love to know what is going on, love to explore. You may find a quick friendly nibble or
tug at your pant leg for attention when you are least expecting it. Rabbits all have different personalities -- do not think that if you get a "such and such" breed
it will be a certain way. Female rabbits (and our Matilda is a classic example) will tend to want to find small, snuggle areas as well as make burrows of their own
(keep regular check on the furniture -- undersides of beds, upholistered furniture, etc). Males can have spraying issues, but not necessarily. It really depends on the
individual. Typically, smaller breed rabbits will be higher energy, as well as younger rabbits. Honestly, if you are new to the idea of caring for a rabbit,
I wholeheartedly recommend finding an older rabbit as they have slowed down a bit. Rabbits make great companions, but you have to respect the fact you are not getting
one (or more) for vanity reasons, as a lap companion, etc. Once you find what a joy it is to find they have bonded with you (for instance, doing a "binky" dance when
they see you), you will understand. But they are not cats (if you hate the smell of cat poop, rabbits are a better choice); and they are not dogs (you can't take them for
walks or play fetch, etc). If you travel regularly, consider that rabbits need feeding, socializing, cleaning and roaming/exercising time at least once, but preferably
twice a day. But I do state rabbits have been a joyful addition to our household, one that is not the least bit regretted (despite Matilda chewing up a few favorite
things and Beasley kicking cat box sand out by the poundfuls).
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Robbins Pet Care. All Rights Reserved. The products sold by Robbins Pet Care are not intended to be the sole source of treatment or to take the place of expert veterinarian care. Please consult with your veterinarian and ask about using a natural and alternative approach for the treatment of your pet.
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